Retinoids are the A-List of all Vitamin-A derivatives. The gold standard for over 2 decades in wrinkle reduction, pore refining, texture softening, dimming discoloration and fighting acne can however, be highly reactionary.
Not all created equally with some less potent and some a harsher as they essentially work to trick the skin into thinking and acting like its younger self.
“Retinol transition can be outright treacherous with dermal downtime but,
worth every flake in the end” – Dr. Ava Shamban
A bright side Benjamin Buttons skin scenario is the “Qua-Routine” can power through the “rough stuff” red, flaking, raw, irritation and inflammation. Come June, emerge fully “filtered” with visible improvements and glowing reviews.
- NEVER too early or too late
- Best to start when there is limited to sun exposure / outdoor activities [and not a chemical peel, laser or other contraindications in sight]
- Minimum 1-month commitment to breakthrough the transitional side effects and dermal downtime
HOW THEY WORK
- Engages skin cell turnover — replacing old with new, fresh cells
- Thickens skin from inside out
- Stimulates production of new blood vessels
- Removes dead skin cells keeping pores clear
- Eliminates dry rough patches
- Dims discoloration and smooths scarring
- Increases collagen and elastin
RETINOID RANGE — NOT ALL A’S ARE EQUAL
- Retinyl palmitate – lowest strength / converts with enzymes but at 20-25% % less potent than Retinol
- Retinol Most tolerable middle strength OTC product
- Retinaldehyde High strength product converts 10 times faster into Retinoic Acid in skin therefore considerably stronger than Retinol
- Adapalene Strongest OTC option but a little different than the others. It slows process of hyperkeratinization in the pores making it a beneficial acne treatment. Can be used with Benzoyl Peroxide without contraindications.
RX versions include: Retin-A, Tretinoin or Tazarotene, which work faster, no conversion and most effective, but also extra irritating to the skin/sun sensitive. Tretinoin can be less effective if used with Benzoyl Peroxide products.
THE RETINOL RULES:
- Start at night pea sized amount twice weekly
- Building up to 3X and then nightly over 4 weeks
- Another 2-4 weeks of nightly usage will yield real results
- Add neck/décolleté
- Use calming moisturizer or serum to hydrate and sooth skin at night
- Add a hydrating spray by day helps to keep from itching/touching face
- Wear sunscreen daily SPF 30 – [preferably mineral]
- After 2 months of consistent nightly usage peeling redness and all irritations will be gone
- Game-changing reduction in fine lines, dark spots, pores, texture, tone and acne
Here is a list of Dr. A’s fave Retinols
ADVANCED RETINOL TONER
X-STRENGTH RETINOL SERUM
All formulas are developed by our Swiss R&D laboratory and scientists with over 30 years of experience in the skincare industry; they are famous for their cutting-edge innovation, outstanding quality, and high performance-driven actives.
ALPHARET OVERNIGHT CREAM
Evening application. Unretouched clinical photography. Data on file, skinbetter science. Individual results may vary. *Twice-daily application of Even Tone Correcting Serum and evening application of AlphaRet Overnight Cream.
ADVANCED RETINOL RESTORER
RETINOL ANTIOX DEFENSE
Experience radiant skin as enchanting as the purest of precious stones! This is the premise of U.SK UNDER SKIN, a brand that relies on excellence and a partnership with renowned Italian laboratory, Monteresearch.